Best Climbing Harnesses of 2026
The best climbing harnesses for the gym or the crag
September 18th, 2025
Home → Gear Reviews → Climbing Gear
A harness is a must-have piece of gear if you want to do any sort of rock climbing with ropes. Harnesses keep you safe whether you’re lead climbing outdoors, top-roping for the first time at a gym, or hopping on an auto-belay.
For something so crucial to your safety and comfort while climbing, you want to make sure you buy the right harness for you. It should be easy to put on, comfortable to hang in, and, most importantly, it should fit right. That’s why we spent months researching and testing 15 of the most popular harnesses on the market from brands like Petzl, Arc’teryx, and Black Diamond to find the very best.
We had multiple men and women testers of different body types wear and climb in the harnesses, and our main author conducted a series of rigorous, standardized tests to compare the nitty gritty details of every single harness. We climbed, belayed, and hung for five minutes straight in every single harness to measure comfort, performance, ease of use, and more. After months of testing, here are the best climbing harnesses out there.
We create reader-supported, mission-driven, objective gear reviews independently selected by our editors. This story may contain affiliate links, which help fund our website. When you click on the links to purchase gear, we may get a commission — without costing you an extra cent. Thank you for supporting our work and mission of outdoor coverage for every body! Learn more.
Comparison table
| CLIMBING HARNESS | TREELINE AWARD | WEIGHT | GEAR LOOPS | ADJUSTABILITY | MSRP* |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mammut Ophir 3 Slide Men's Women's |
Best overall Read why |
386 grams (men’s medium) | 4 | One waist buckle, one buckle on each leg loop | $70 |
| Black Diamond Momentum Men's Women's |
Best affordable Read why |
289 grams (men’s medium) | 4 | One waist buckle, one plastic buckle on each leg loop | $75 |
| Petzl Corax Unisex |
Most Versatile Read why |
440 grams (size 2) | 4 | Two waist buckles, one buckle on each leg loop | $80 |
| Black Diamond Solution Men's Women's |
Best Sport Climbing Read why |
378 grams (men’s medium) | 4 | One waist buckle, flexible leg loops | $100 |
| Petzl Corax LT Men's Women's |
Best for Gym Climbing Read why |
390 grams (men’s medium) | 4 | One waist buckle, flexible leg loops | $70 |
| Arc’teryx AR-395a/385a Men's Women's |
Best Trad Climbing Read why |
390 grams (men’s), 385 grams (women’s) | 4 | One waist buckle, one buckle on each leg loop | $160 |
The winners
Best overall climbing harness: Mammut Ophir 3 Slide
Weight: 386 grams (men’s medium)
Gear loops: 4
Adjustability: One waist buckle, one buckle on each leg loop
MSRP: $70
What we liked: Great adjustability, soft padding, added durability at tie-in point
What we didn’t like: A little bit bulky and heavy for experienced sport climbers
The Mammut Ophir 3 Slide was our favorite harness during testing because it did the best job of balancing comfort, features, weight, and adjustability. It ranked as one of the most comfortable harnesses when we tested it while belaying, climbing on ropes and auto belays, and during a standardized hanging test where we hung from a rope wearing each harness for five minutes. Beyond its comfort, it had the widest range of adjustability besides the Petzl Corax, meaning there’s a better chance it will fit you right out of the box.
Mammut Ophir 3 Slide
Men's
Women's
-
After safety, a harness’ comfort is probably its most important feature. If it’s not comfortable to climb, hang, and belay in, you won’t want to wear it much. The comfort of a harness depends on a few things. Most importantly, a harness will only be comfortable if it fits you correctly (more on that later), but the amount of padding and width of the waist belt and leg loops also play a big role in comfort too.
One of the main reasons why the Mammut Ophir 3 Slide topped our list is because of its comfort. It doesn’t have the widest waist belt and leg loops, but it has the most comfortable padding out of all the harnesses we tested. It’s soft and super plush, meaning your body feels more supported while hanging on your project. Plus, the waist and legs all have mesh windows to help with ventilation to keep you cool during summer climbs or the gym rush hour.
On top of its comfy padding, the Ophir 3 Slide had one of the widest ranges of adjustments out of the harnesses we tested. If a harness doesn’t actually fit you, it won’t be comfortable (or safe), which is why the Ophir’s wider adjustability gave it some extra points in our comfort tests.
-
Most of the harnesses we tested don’t have adjustable leg loops, which help with fit but can add a bit of weight and sometimes limit mobility if you tighten the loops too much. We tended to prefer harnesses that had adjustable legs, and thankfully, they’re present on the Ophir 3 Slide. These, along with a nicely adjustable waist, meant the Ophir 3 Slide was one of the most adjustable harnesses we tested.
The men’s version comes in sizes S to XXL, and the medium size is recommended for folks with waist measurements of 29 to 33 inches and leg measurements 21 to 24 inches. Both of these ranges are slightly wider than that of competing harnesses. The specs for the women’s version are similar, coming in sizes XS to L (one less size than the men’s version), with the recommended measurements for a medium coming in at 29 to 33 inches at the waist and 22 to 25 inches at the legs.
The waist belt has 12 and 13 inches of adjustability for the men’s and women’s versions respectively, and both have 6 inches of adjustability in the leg loops. The adjustability of the leg loops is particularly nice, since finding a snug fit in your legs matters when most of your weight will be focused on your thighs when you’re hang-dogging a route.
While the Ophir 3 Slide is highly adjustable, the Petzl Corax was by far the most adjustable harness out of everything we tested. However, the Corax only comes in two sizes, which is why it has such a wide range of adjustability. If you measure your waist and thighs and you’re in between sizes of other harnesses, or your proportions don’t line up with most brands’ sizes, go for the Corax. Otherwise, the Ophir 3 Slide is plenty adjustable.
-
The Ophir 3 Slide comes with all the features you’d expect out of a harness, including a strong belay loop and easy-to-use tie-in points. Even the gear loops were decently easy to use, so you won’t be fumbling around trying to clip or unclip your draws halfway up a route.
The Ophir 3 Slide does have a few extra features that makes it stand out even more. For one, the bottom tie-in point is reinforced with a layer of plastic to add to its durability. The plastic helps protect the nylon webbing from your rope, but it can make the harness jolt a little bit when shifting your weight from side to side while hanging or lowering. Another small detail we love about this Mammut harness is its belay loop indicator. Once you’ve worn through the nylon after heavy use, some red fabric will start to show, telling you it’s time to retire your harness.
-
If you’re looking for a comfortable, do-it-all harness, the Mammut Ophir 3 Slide is for you. We loved its plush padding and fantastic adjustability (especially in the leg loops), not to mention its ventilation and durable tie-in points. It’s slim enough that you’ll forget about it while climbing, but comfortable enough to hang in while you’re working the crux of your project.
Best affordable climbing harness: Black Diamond Momentum
Weight: 289 grams (men’s medium)
Gear loops: 4
Adjustability: One waist buckle, one plastic buckle on each leg loop
MSRP: $65
What we liked: Thick padding, adjustable leg loops, sturdy gear loops
What we didn’t like: Too bulky for some experienced sport climbers
If you want to save a few bucks, the Black Diamond Momentum is a great pick. It’s a bit cheaper than all the other harnesses we tested, but still provides solid comfort and decent adjustability. If you’re just starting out on your climbing journey, this is the perfect option for you.
Black Diamond Momentum
Men's
Women's
-
The padding on the Momentum isn’t quite as plush or comfortable as the Mammut Ophir 3 Slide, but it’s still comfortable enough. It’s a bit harder, but there’s a good amount of it to keep you supported, especially compared to lightweight sport harnesses like the Black Diamond Solution.
The waist belt and leg loops are nice and wide to disperse your weight so you can comfortably hang, but they aren’t so bulky that they restrict your movement. When we climbed in the Momentum, we were able to comfortably use high feet without any pinching, and the harness was supportive while lowering, even when doing multiple auto-belay routes back-to-back.
-
The range of adjustability of the Momentum isn’t quite as wide as the Ophir 3 Slide, but it’s nothing to scoff at either. The waist belt has a normal amount of adjustability, about 10.5 inches for the men’s version and 13 inches for the women’s harness, and it even has adjustable and flexible leg loops.
We’re fans of adjustable leg loops, because even though the adjustability often adds weight, most of the time we think the added comfort and support is worth it. The Momentum uses a different method of adjustability than other harnesses we examined. Instead of a metal, double-backed buckle, this harness has a plastic buckle that can slide up and down the strap, making the leg loop bigger or smaller. In addition to this plastic buckle, there’s a flexible piece of nylon that helps the loops adjust while you’re climbing.
The recommended wearer’s measurements in the fit guide for a men’s medium clock in at 30 to 33 inches at the waist and 20 to 24 inches at the legs for a men’s medium, while the women’s medium lists 30 to 33 inches at the waist and 22 to 24 inches at the legs. All those specs fall in line with the ranges of most other harnesses we tested.
-
Since the Momentum is a beginner’s harness, there aren’t too many extra features, but it’s got everything you need. One feature we did really like, however, was its gear loops. They’re super structured and don’t move, which makes clipping and unclipping draws extremely easy, perfect for practicing for your first lead climb. Both the Momentum and Black Diamond’s more sport-oriented harness, the Solution, have these sturdy gear loops, and they’re one of the big reasons the Solution is our pick for the best sport harness (more on that later).
-
If you don’t want to shell out as much cash for a harness, the Black Diamond Momentum is a great buy. It’s comfortable, fits well, and you’ll still be able to perform all the climbing moves you need to while wearing it. Plus, you can get it as part of the Momentum Harness Package, which also comes with chalk, a chalk bag, a belay device, and a locking carabiner.
Most versatile climbing harness: Petzl Corax
Weight: 440 grams (size 2)
Gear loops: 4
Adjustability: Two waist buckles, one buckle on each leg loop
MSRP: $80
What we liked: Best adjustability out of any harness, decent padding
What we didn’t like: Only two sizes, a bit heavy and bulky
The adjustability of the Petzl Corax was by far the best out of any harness we tested. If you’re comparing measurements from different brands but just can’t find one that works for you, the Corax should be on your list.
Petzl Corax
-
As we’ve said before, a comfortable harness is one that fits. And there’s no harness we tested that has a better chance of fitting than the Petzl Corax. Even though fit is priority number one, the materials and padding also matter when you’re hanging in a harness. Luckily, the Corax doesn’t skimp out there either.
The padding, especially in the legs, is a bit stiffer and harder than that of the Black Diamond Momentum and Mammut Ophir 3 Slide, but it does a great job at dispersing weight while lowering and hanging on a rope. When we hung on a rope while wearing the Corax for five minutes, it felt comfortable the entire time.
The only small flaw it has in the comfort department is the size of its buckles. They’re quite big, which could lead to pinching at the waist or in your crotch, but we didn’t experience that during testing.
-
The fit and adjustability of the Corax is the main reason it’s one of our winners. The waist has a whopping 20 inches of adjustability, and both leg loops have 10 inches of room to play with, too. The waist belt is the only one we tested that features two buckles, one on each side, so you can really dial in your fit. Even though it only comes in two sizes, the flexibility of the Corax’s straps makes it the most versatile harness we tested by far.
The two sizes “1” and “2” have a good amount of overlap, but based on the measurements, if you typically wear a medium or above, order a 2, and if you’re a small or below, order a 1. Even though we were close to the border, we ordered a 2 and it fit perfectly after adjusting all the straps. This harness truly is the best option for folks who are constantly in between sizes, or if you want a spare harness that can fit folks of basically all body types.
-
There aren’t a whole lot of extra features on the Corax, just the standard stuff you’ll find on most other harnesses, such as four gear loops, a rear haul loop, and adjustable risers. The gear loops weren’t our favorite since they move around quite a bit, which could make clipping and unclipping draws a little more difficult than some of the other harnesses we tested.
-
It weighs more than high-performing sport options, but if harnesses never fit you, or you want one that can fit multiple people, the Corax is a no-brainer. It’s solidly comfortable, easy enough to use, and has the best adjustability out of all the harnesses we tested by a mile.
Best sport climbing harness: Black Diamond Solution
Weight: 378 grams (men’s medium)
Gear loops: 4
Adjustability: One waist buckle, flexible leg loops
MSRP: $85
What we liked: Thin but sturdy padding, wide and supportive waist and leg loops
What we didn’t like: Leg loops run a little big and aren’t adjustable
This lightweight harness has incredibly easy-to-use gear loops and just enough support and padding to keep you comfortable on your hardest sport projects. Its leg loops aren’t adjustable and run a bit bigger than other brands we tested, but if you can find the right fit, this harness will keep you feeling free and comfortable on the wall.
Black Diamond Solution
Men's
Women's
-
The Black Diamond Solution doesn’t have padding as plush as the Ophir 3 Slide, and it actually feels quite stiff to the touch. However, it was still one of the most comfortable harnesses we tested, especially when it came to hanging.
The thin padding pairs with some of the widest leg loops we tested to evenly distribute your weight throughout the harness. Whether we were lowering on an auto-belay or hanging for five minutes straight, we didn’t experience any hot spots or pinching while wearing the Solution. And even though the leg loops are larger than others, they didn’t affect our mobility when climbing at all.
-
The Solution doesn’t have adjustable leg loops, which will be a downside for some. If you have thicker thighs but a smaller waist, the “correct” size might feel too restrictive around your legs, and if you have a bigger waist but smaller thighs, your legs might be swimming in the Solution’s leg loops.
For those reasons, it’s super important to take your measurements before ordering this harness—or any harness without adjustable leg loops—to ensure a snug, comfortable fit. We found the Solution’s leg loops to feel a bit bigger than most of the other harnesses we tested, and they rode up on one of the testers while climbing and lowering.
-
Like most of the harnesses we tested, the Solution is quite simple and doesn’t have a ton of extra bells and whistles, because most climbers don’t really need them. The Solution is oriented for sport climbing, both indoors and out, and its streamlined design reflects that.
One feature that we absolutely loved, though, was its gear loops. Unlike most other brands that have more flexible gear loops (which some might like), Black Diamond’s harnesses have structured, stiff gear loops. We liked these a lot better because we found it much easier to clip quickdraws onto them. Since they don’t move around, you don’t have to grab them with your fingers first, and instead, you can just shove the gate of your quickdraw onto the loop and it’ll basically clip itself.
-
The Black Diamond Solution is a slim yet supportive harness perfect for sport climbing. Its thin padding is comfortable enough to hang while working the crux of your project, and its sturdy gear loops makes accessing your draws a breeze. Its leg loops aren’t adjustable and run a little big, but if you can find the right fit, you’ll be more than happy with the Black Diamond Solution.
Best harness for gym climbing: Petzl Corax LT
Weight: 390 grams (men’s medium)
Gear loops: 4
Adjustability: One waist buckle, flexible leg loops
MSRP: $70
What we liked: Great comfort, simple design
What we didn’t like: A bit bulky, leg loops aren’t adjustable
For laps at the gym, no harness is better suited than the Petzl Corax LT. Its excellent comfort, lightweight build, and simple design make it the best choice for weeknight rope sessions. Its padding is soft and supportive without being overkill, and it can easily handle anything from auto-belays to lead climbs in the cave.
Petzl Corax LT
Men's
Women's
-
The Corax LT might seem like a simple, straightforward harness, and it is. But what made it stand out from many of the other harnesses we tested was its comfort. The padding in the waist and leg loops isn’t as soft as the Ophir, but it isn’t as thin as the Arc’teryx either. It’s a nice middle ground that will keep you supported in all sorts of situations.
The design of the Corax LT is decently slim, which means you’ll barely notice you’re wearing it while on the wall. In all our climbing tests, it was one of our favorites to wear because of its trim design.
We also tested the Petzl Sama and Selena, which are slimmer versions of the Corax LT that save on weight. These might be good for more advanced climbers who care about the extra grams and want to feel as free as possible, but we found the extra bit of comfort from the slightly bigger Corax LT to be worth it for most.
-
The Corax LT has a thick strap at its waist belt that’s adjustable with a double-backed buckle. It was extremely easy to use in all of our testing, which let us dial in a great fit in seconds. Where the Corax LT lacks adjustability, though, is in the leg loops. Similar to the Black Diamond Solution, it’s important to take your measurements to ensure you order the right size of the Corax LT. The leg loops didn’t run as big as the ones on the Solution, which means folks with thicker thighs might find them to be a bit too snug.
-
This harness doesn’t have many features, and we didn’t like the gear loops as much as the other harnesses we tested, but that doesn’t matter for gym climbing. It would also be nice to have wear markers on the tie-in points and belay loop, but that was quite a rare feature in our testing.
The gear loops are soft and flexible, so we thought they were a bit harder to use than more structured ones like those found on the Black Diamond harnesses we tested. But since the quickdraws are permanently on the walls in gyms, this isn’t a big deal.
-
The Corax LT strikes a great balance of comfort and weight for gym climbers. It isn’t as trimmed down as other harnesses, but it gives you enough support to hang on the rope while you contemplate the crux. Its gear loops aren’t the easiest to use, but they’re good enough for the occasional day outdoors, and they aren’t needed for indoor sessions anyway. It doesn’t come with the fancy extras some other options have, but for gym climbers who just want an easy-to-use, comfortable harness, you can’t get much better than the Corax LT.
Best trad climbing harness: Arc’teryx AR-395a Harness (men’s) and AR-385a Harness (women’s)
Weight: 390 grams (men’s), 385 grams (women’s)
Gear loops: 4
Adjustability: One waist buckle, one buckle on each leg loop
MSRP: $160
What we liked: Lightweight yet supportive, widely adjustable waist and leg loops
What we didn’t like: Not a ton of padding, expensive price
Trad climbers need a harness that’s sturdy and well built to handle all the extra gear they need to carry, without weighing them down too much. That’s where the Arc’teryx AR-395a comes in. It’s the most comfortable harness we tested and adjustable at the waist and legs, all while being light enough that you won’t even notice it on the wall.
Arc’teryx AR-395a
Arc’teryx AR-385a
-
The AR-395a is a pricey harness, but for folks looking for a high-performing piece of kit, this is the one for you. The materials and construction are all top-notch, and when multiple testers wore this harness, they said it was the most comfortable out of all the options we tested.
That comfort doesn’t really come from padding—instead, it comes from design. The waist and leg loops of the AR-395a are all actually quite thin, and at first glance you might not think they’d be very comfortable. But once you put the harness on and start hanging, your weight gets distributed incredibly evenly, providing a super supportive hang.
While the waist belt doesn’t have a ton of padding, it is larger than most of the other harnesses we tested, which helps support the extra weight of trad gear. The fabric of the leg loops also cleverly encircle more of your leg and sit underneath the buckles, which drastically reduces the chances of pinching or uncomfortable rubbing in the crotch.
-
The AR-395a has nearly as much adjustability as the Ophir 3 Slide, making it one of the most adjustable harnesses we tested. The waist and leg loops each feature a double-backed buckle that’s super easy to tighten and loosen for quick adjustments. We especially like the adjustable leg loops for trad climbers, as finding the perfect fit matters even more when your harness is weighed down by cams.
-
Some trad climbers might want an extra gear loop, but all of the harnesses we tested for this guide only have four. Besides, you can probably get away with the four standard gear loops for the vast majority of trad routes anyway.
The gear loops on the AR-395a have a nice combination of flexibility and rigidity. The loops themselves are a harder plastic to make clipping draws easy, but they’re connected to the harness with nylon, which can bend so you can move the loop around if you need to.
The AR-395a also features wear markers on the belay loop and tie-in points, so it’s easy to know when your harness is at the end of its life.
-
If you need to carry heavy loads while staying comfortable, the Arc’teryx AR-395a is an easy pick. Its lightweight design can still handle all the gear you need, and its adjustability means getting it to fit perfectly is simple. Not to mention, its outstanding comfort will keep you happy, even if you’re struggling through off-widths.
Other climbing harnesses we tested
Petzl Sama (men’s) and Selena (women’s)
Weight: 445 grams (men’s), 420 grams (women’s)
Gear loops: 4
Adjustability: Flexible leg loops
MSRP: $85
The Sama (men’s) and Selena (women’s) are harnesses better suited for sport climbers who put freedom of movement and low weight above everything else. They still have a decent amount of padding, but the waist and leg loops themselves are thinner, which meant a more uncomfortable hanging experience in our testing. If you don’t care as much about comfort, these high-performing harnesses could be a good next option.
Petzl Sama
Petzl Selena
The Petzl Sama and Selena are lightweight harnesses built for sport climbing.
Weight: 320 grams
Gear loops: 4
Adjustability: One adjustable waist buckle, adjustable leg loops
MSRP: $110
The Sender is a more streamlined harness compared to the Ophir 3 Slide, and in the same category as the Petzl Sama and Selena. We appreciated the wear markers on the tie-in loops, but this harness only comes in a unisex size. Two of our male testers liked the fit, but one of our female testers said the leg loops felt a bit too small. And since the leg loops aren’t adjustable, you might be stuck with a harness that doesn’t quite fit as well as it could.
Still, this harness has a really nice balance of comfort, weight, and ventilation, and is a worthwhile consideration—if it fits.
Mammut Sender Harness
Mammut’s Sender is another great pick for sport climbing, but it only comes in unisex sizing.
Weight: 539 grams
Gear loops: 4
Adjustability: One adjustable buckle at waist, adjustable leg loops
MSRP: $130
This harness is heavy and bulky, and is the only harness that truly bothered us while on the wall. Its thick fabric felt like it was getting in the way while we were climbing, and even though the leg loops are adjustable, they’re a pain to tweak. The front gear loops also stick up, which we found a bit awkward while climbing and clipping quickdraws. The two belay loops might be nice for some big wall climbers or those who rappel a lot, but we think most climbers can skip this feature.
Metolius Safe Tech All Around
The Metolius harness felt too bulky, and most climbers don’t need the extras.
How to choose a climbing harness
All harnesses have the following features. It’s important to know them before purchasing your first climbing harness.
-
The waist belt fits around the waist and is adjustable based on desired fit. You want your waist belt to sit on your hip bones and to have thick enough padding to keep you comfortable. REI gives good advice on how a climbing harness should fit and how to put it on correctly.
-
Located on the waist belt, the buckle contains one to two metal pieces that the strap doubles back through to ensure it stays secure. This metal piece provides the adjustment and closure of the waist belt.
-
These two loops support your legs while in the harness. A good leg loop is well padded and has some elasticity for comfort.
If you’re worried about the fit of a leg loop on your thighs, we suggest looking for harnesses that have adjustable leg loops (vs. leg loops that “adjust” by being stretchy). As someone getting into climbing, you are less likely to find yourself in a hanging belay, or other situations where you'll be putting your full weight into the harness for extended periods of time. Still, your leg loops should feel comfortable since they support most of your weight while hanging or lowering.
-
Located at the front of the harness, the belay loop is the strongest piece of the harness. There aren’t many variations of belay loops to influence a preference.
-
Gear loops are located around the waist belt. They are a space to carry your climbing gear (chalk bag, quickdraws, etc.).
As a beginner climber, a gear loop isn't the most important feature of your harness. Still, it's important to become familiar with the parts and their functions before climbing.
This diagram by REI details the different parts of a harness, including the gear loop and haul loop (which are used for carrying up a second climbing rope on long climbs). While the haul loop may generally be used more by advanced climbers, as a beginning climber, you will likely use the gear loops early from the start.
What to look for in a climbing harness
-
There are plenty of harnesses on the market that cater to different climbing styles, and while you can perform most of these different disciplines with basically any harness, you’ll be a lot more comfortable if you match up the harness with the type of climbing you typically do.
Since performing at your maximum is the goal of most sport climbers, their harnesses tend to be as light as possible. There will be less padding, thinner pieces of fabric, and fewer extra features and buckles. The fit of a sport harness should also allow for maximum freedom of movement so you can give 100% of your focus to the climb.
Gym climbers will probably want a harness similar to sport climbers, especially if your project is about to reset. However, since you can typically climb more during a gym session and you might be trying harder routes, having a comfortable harness that you can hang in is ideal. With a harness that has a bit more padding, you can easily hang and work on the crux of your project without your harness digging in. The gear loops on a gym harness also aren’t as important, since most of the time you won’t be using quickdraws at the gym.
Harnesses for trad climbers should balance comfort, weight, and features to keep you performing at your best. Some trad climbers might want an extra gear loop or two so they can carry a larger rack, but most of the time the standard four loops should suffice. The gear loops should be easy to access and use so you don’t have to think about unclipping your cams. Since trad climbers carry so much more weight, finding a harness that fits well and supports all that weight is critical. These harnesses will most likely be heavier than sport harnesses to handle all that weight, and some might like adjustable leg loops to really fine-tune the fit.
Similarly, big wall climbers will want a sturdier harness that can comfortably handle all that extra gear. Some harnesses have extra features that could be a huge help on big wall adventures, such as extra belay loops, extra gear loops, and more.
Alpine harnesses have to perform many of the same jobs as trad harnesses. They need to be lightweight enough that they don’t bother you while climbing, but also sturdy enough to handle heavier gear. Depending on your adventure, you might want extra loops to hold ice screws or other gear, which can weigh down your harness more than normal. On top of that, alpine harnesses should be adjustable (even in the leg loops) so you can shed or add layers when the weather changes. And if you need to do some scrambling or hiking in between pitches, having a harness that’s comfortable to walk in is key.
-
Comfort is probably one of the most important features of a harness. Multiple factors play into how comfortable a harness will be for you, including design, padding, and fit. Most harnesses have at least a little bit of padding and the waist belt and leg loops will have some sort of structure to support your weight while hanging.
On top of finding a harness that fits you well, if you can, try to hang in a harness for a couple of minutes before you buy it to check that the leg loops don’t ride up too much and that there aren’t any spots that pinch you.
-
All the harnesses we tested had four gear loops, which is the norm. If you know you’re going to be sport climbing outdoors, getting a feel for where your gear loops are placed and practicing unclipping quickdraws from them can make your climbs feel easier.
Some trad and big wall-specific harnesses might have more gear loops to help you carry additional gear.
-
Adjustability is key when it comes to finding a harness that fits you right. All harnesses should have at least one adjustability point at the waist, nearly always secured by a metal buckle that the strap doubles back through. Make sure you know if your waist buckle is automatically double-backed (which is the case on most modern harnesses) or if it needs to be manually double-backed to stay secure.
Some harnesses have adjustable leg loops as well that help you get them nice and snug. We like adjustable leg loops because they help with comfort and fit, especially if you have particularly thick or skinny thighs. However, adjustable legs loops don’t have any give to them, which is why some folks prefer leg loops without buckles. Most of the time there’s a piece of stretchy fabric which helps the loops expand while you’re climbing. This can make climbing more comfortable, but the leg loops have to fit you in the first place for this to work.
-
Depending on your style of climbing, the weight of a harness can matter a lot. Those extra grams might not seem like a lot on the ground, but if you’re climbing a long route at your limit, every little bit counts. On the other hand, if you don’t want or need to push your physical limits and just want to enjoy climbing, then weight might not matter as much to you and you can opt for a more plush, comfortable harness.
Packability can also be a big factor when choosing the right harness. Since there can be a lot to bring to the crag, you want to make sure your harness doesn’t take up too much room in your pack. That way, you’ll have more space for other crucial gear like quickdraws, climbing shoes, your helmet, and plenty of snacks.
-
The belay loop is the strongest point of the harness. To be certified by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA Standard 105) or the European Committee for Standardization (EN12277), a harness’ belay loop must be tested to 15kN. The tie-in points aren’t tested specifically, but the waist also needs to be tested under a force of 10kN.
When belaying or tying in, you should always double-check that you’ve used the correct points. Incorrect usage could lead to the harness failing.
Check out our Best Belay Devices and Best Belay Glasses guides for more gear recommendations.
-
The breathability of harnesses doesn’t matter a whole lot, but on those hot days or busy evenings at the gym, it can make a difference. Harnesses with less padding and slimmer designs will be more breathable by nature, but some harnesses have ventilation to help prevent you from overheating too.
-
Men’s and women’s harnesses are designed differently to fit various body types. The main differences are size ratio of the waist and legs, and the distance between the waist and legs. During our testing, we compared men’s and women’s versions of the same harnesses to identify any differences, and noticed women’s harnesses have longer belay loops to provide a larger rise (distance between waist belt and leg loops), and they had wider leg loops too. So if you want more room for your thighs or have larger hips, a women’s harness will probably fit you better.
-
It’s no secret that harnesses can get expensive, but what are you actually paying for? Most of the time prices jump for lighter materials, more streamlined designs, and extra features. In our opinion, most folks don’t need all those fancy bells and whistles, and will probably be happier saving their money by opting for an inexpensive or mid-range harness. Just ensure it has all the features you need, it fits, and is comfortable.
How to know if your harness fits correctly
More padding means more comfort, but you should make sure your harness actually fits, too.
Getting a harness that fits is probably the single most important thing to get right when shopping. But how do you know it actually fits? First, it’s a great idea to take your waist and thigh measurements so you know exactly what size you need.
With these numbers, take a look at the size guides of the harnesses you’re interested in. If you fall in the middle of both the waist and leg sizes, fantastic! If you’re on the edge or maybe you’re in the range of the waist but not the legs, try looking at different brands or the alternate gendered version. Harnesses with adjustable leg loops make this calculus a lot easier.
Once you’ve found the right size, trying your harness on to ensure it fits correctly is key. Here’s how to check.
First, loosen up the waist and leg loop straps all the way so it’s easy to step into the harness. Make sure none of the straps are twisted, the waist belt isn’t upside down, and the belay loop is pointed forward. Then, step through the waist and each leg loop just like a pair of climbing pants. Pull your harness up above your hips and tighten the waist belt first, then the leg loops if applicable.
Now that your harness is secure, you’ll want to see if you can fit more than two fingers between your harness and your waist. If you can, you should tighten it more. Ideally, you’ll have some room to make the waist belt tighter or looser, and you won’t be at the very end of the strap.
Once you double check everything is on tightly, not twisted, and all your buckles are double-backed, your harness is on correctly. We also like to have someone pull up and down on the top tie in point to ensure the waist belt is tight enough.
Care and maintenance tips
To make your harness last as long as possible, it’s important to treat it well and keep it clean. Climbing outdoors can get dirty, so make sure to brush off any dirt and chalk from your harness after each session. Store it in a cool, dry place to help it last for years.
Even when you take good care of your harness, after using it for years, it will eventually wear down and you’ll have to replace it. That’s why you should be inspecting your harness at least once every year to check that it’s in climbing shape.
Petzl has a great, detailed guide on how to inspect your harness, but in short, you should take a close look at every aspect of your harness, paying special attention to the straps, tie-in points, and belay loops, keeping an eye out for any fraying, discoloration, or damage. Some harnesses even have a different colored fabric on the inside of the belay loop and/or tie-in points that indicate it’s time to retire it.
How we researched and tested
To find the best harnesses, we narrowed our list to the most promising 15 options and ran each of them through a series of real-life and standardized tests. This guide’s main author, Kai Burkhardt, put on every single harness, including the women’s versions, to test for fit, adjustability, comfort, and ease of use. He performed squats, did stretches, and practiced clipping and unclipping quickdraws from each harness.
Burkhardt also climbed in each of the men’s harnesses multiple times on top rope, lead, and even auto-belay. He climbed with the harnesses multiple times in local gyms, as well as at several crags all along the Front Range of Colorado.
To get a feel for fit and sizing, Burkhardt enlisted the help of multiple men and women testers with different body shapes to try on and climb in each of the harnesses. He then collected feedback on comfort, fit, and performance from these additional testers.
To judge hanging comfort, Burkhardt hung from a rope for five minutes straight in each of the men’s harnesses adjusted to his size, taking notes on any pinching, weight distribution, and more. One of the women testers performed this same test while wearing each of the women’s harnesses in her size.
Our testing process
How we tested
- Climbed, belayed, and performed a five-minute hang in every harness
- Top rope, lead, and auto-belay sessions
- Local gyms and several crags along the Front Range of Colorado
- Main author tried on every harness (including women’s versions)
What we evaluate
- Fit and adjustability
- Comfort and performance
- Ease of use (clipping/unclipping quickdraws, etc.)
Standardized drills
- Squats and stretches in each harness
- Clipping & unclipping quickdraws
- Five-minute hang notes on pinching & weight distribution
Why you should trust us / About the author
Kai Burkhardt is an avid climber who has been bouldering and rope climbing for nearly a decade. He has worked at multiple rock climbing gyms, where he has belayed for birthday parties and fit countless newcomers in rental harnesses.
Burkhardt enjoys rope climbing both indoors and out, so he’s used plenty of harnesses over his years. For this story, he tried on and climbed in every single harness to find the absolute best for everyone, and conducted all sorts of tests over the span of multiple months to write this guide.
This guide includes information originally written by Grace Anderson, a climber, outdoor instructor, and community organizer. She’s a field instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) and for GirlVentures, a non-profit whose mission is to empower girls through outdoor adventures. She previously was program manager for the Sierra Club Inspiring Connections Outdoors Program to connect communities with limited access to the outdoors.
