Climbing in Castle Rock State Park
Bouldering, top-roping, bolted sport routes, and trad lines for climbers at every level
Spotting is especially important on taller climbs, like this one at the Parking Lot Boulder. Photo courtesy Jocelyn Crawford.
February 14th, 2024
Whether you’re an experienced outdoor rock climber or looking to test your gym skills on real rock, Castle Rock State Park has something for you. At an easy day-trip distance from anywhere in the Bay Area, Castle Rock has a high density of famous boulder problems, as well as a respite from the nearby urban bustle.
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains, Bay Area, California
Best Season: Accessible year-round, preferred fall-spring
Climbing Style: Sandstone bouldering
Trip Type: Covid friendly day trip
Permits and Fees: $10 parking (but some free parking area is available)
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Quick Facts
Castle Rock is a California State Park that was established in 1968.
The boulders in the park are Vaqueros sandstone.
The various erosion patterns (including caves, pockets, honeycombs, and ridges) are all known as tafoni.
The parkland previously belonged to different tribal communities which eventually became known collectively as the Ohlone people.
Part of what makes Castle Rock such a popular climbing destination is its history. Legendary climbers Chris Sharma, Jim Bridwell, Scott Cosgrove, Ron Kauk, and John Yablonski, all visited Castle Rock and you can find first ascents and test pieces established by these climbing greats around the park.
Castle Rock is a climbing destination with test pieces popular with climbers of all abilities. A climb on the Waimea Wall. Photo courtesy Jocelyn Crawford.
What You Should Know
Proximity to the Bay Area
Just an hour’s drive from downtown San Francisco, Castle Rock State Park’s lush forest and sculptural sandstone boulders offer a reprieve from city life for climbers at every level. While some park guidelines have been altered to maintain safety during the Covid-19 pandemic, Castle Rock remains open for day use. Since it’s located so close to the city and boasts a high density of boulder problems, this spot is a great choice for central coast and Bay Area dwellers looking for easily accessible rock climbing day trips.
a part of climbing history
Part of what makes Castle Rock such a popular climbing destination is its history. Legendary climbers Chris Sharma, Jim Bridwell, Scott Cosgrove, Ron Kauk, and John Yablonski, all visited Castle Rock and you can find first ascents and test pieces established by these climbing greats around the park.
Test pieces differ from projects since they are well-known climbs that rock climbers set as a milestone of their ability. Many climbers find them more meaningful than just climbing a new grade since test pieces usually have some climbing history.
Variety of rock and ways to climb
The trad-friendly cracks of Joshua Tree and colossal granite walls of Yosemite have become icons of California climbing, but the sandstone boulders of Castle Rock offer a completely different experience and unique challenge no matter your climbing background.
Delicate smearing and friction-dependent slopes dominate the majority of routes, although juggy pockets and thin cracks can be found as well.
Bouldering makes up over half of the climbing at Castle Rock; however, some top-roping routes, bolted sport routes, and even a smattering of trad lines exist here. T
his guide is focused on preparing you for a bouldering trip, but other than the necessary skills and gear, the details are the same for a sport climbing or top-roping visit.
A boulderer on The Beak. Friction dependent slopes and "slap happy" climbs are common in Castle Rock.
Highlights
Accessibility
Castle Rock has over 500 different of bouldering routes of different grades and heights. Photo courtesy Jocelyn Crawford.
From most of the Bay Area, the drive is short and easy, and so is the approach! A few minutes of walking on well-maintained trails takes you to dozens of boulder problems; the high density of routes is tough to beat.
Add a year-round season and inexpensive parking options, and you have one of the most accessible climbing areas.
Castle Rock is one of the rare climbing locations that is accessible all year long, as it doesn’t see snow or experience prohibitively hot summers.
The only strict weather limitation is rain, as sandstone has to be completely dry to be climbed without risk of damage.
Additionally, Castle Rock State Park occasionally closes during winter storms due to downed trees. Check the website before going.
Boulders For All
There are around 300 boulder problems in Castle Rock park, ranging from V0 to V12 (beginner to advanced). Soil and moss make for fairly soft landing zones, and almost all the boulders have clear down-climbs. While bouldering always comes with risk, these are pretty great conditions if you’re still adjusting to outdoor climbing.
For the experienced athletes looking to push their abilities, this can be a great place to visit frequently for projecting test pieces like Deforestation (V7) or the Sharma Arete (V9).
Challenges
Overnight Camping
Castle Rock State Park has several backcountry campsites. Each are $15 per site, per night with an $8 non-refundable reservation fee (as of 2024).
There is also lodging in nearby Santa Cruz or Los Gatos if you’re passing through. Updates to the camping options are posted on the Castle Rock State Park website.
Popularity
Sandstone weakened by moisture will crack and break.
The park itself is relatively small, which is good news for a high density of climbs, but bad news about high traffic areas.
On weekends, the bouldering areas can be a bit crowded, and spots in the main parking area become scarce.
If possible, plan your visit for the less popular weekdays and you shouldn’t have anything to worry about!
Of course, Leave No Trace principles are always important, but especially so in smaller parks.
There are garbage cans and restrooms near the parking areas, as well as a restroom near the main Castle Rock parking lot on Skyline Boulevard (Highway 35), so proper waste disposal, should be easy.
Delicate Rock
The main condition-related concern at Castle Rock is the actual rock.
Sandstone loses integrity when wet, which can actually result in breakage when put under too much stress.
Other than violating Leave No Trace principles, damaging the delicate rock also alters established routes and can lead to dangerous falls if holds break unexpectedly.
Waiting at least 24-48 hours after a rainfall to climb on sandstone is the rule of thumb, but if the rock seems at all wet, hold off until it feels completely dry. A #1 rule for climbers is don’t climb on wet rock. You can read more about how climbing on wet sandstone rock can permanently damage routes from climbers in Red Rocks.
Cooler months may require extra layers. In warmer months, you may want fewer layers. Photo courtesy Jocelyn Crawford.
When to Go
The climbing season here runs all year long! The only strict weather limitation is rain, since you can’t climb on wet sandstone. While summer is the least rainy, it is also the hottest, muggiest, and buggiest. Fall through spring are ideal conditions at Castle Rock; just bring a few extra layers in the coldest months, especially if you opt for routes that require you to belay!
Since the park is so accessible, it can become crowded on weekends with nice weather. If possible plan your trip for weekdays to avoid crowds and minimize the impact on the park.
Are you a climber? Check out our Climbing related gear guides:
The parking outside the park gates along the road is free, but limited! Photo courtesy Jocelyn Crawford.
Permits and Parking
The park itself is open from 6 am to sunset daily. Entering the park is free and does not require any type of permit, although camping reservations will be required when camping opens back up (stay up to date on the park website).
Parking in the day-use lots is $10, however, there is limited free parking along the road outside the lots. Masks are required when paying fees at the park kiosks and are encouraged whenever you are in common areas like restrooms. Trail access is also limited and some trails are one-way to facilitate social distancing, so some added route planning might be needed to accommodate this.
Can I bring my dog?
Dogs are prohibited in Castle Rock State Park, according to the California State Parks website. There’s an exception for service dogs. Other California State Parks allow dogs in certain areas, like campgrounds. However, Castle Rock’s campground does not allow dogs.
Castle Rock State Park is a classic bouldering area. Spotting on a climb at Lower Indian Rock. Photo courtesy Jocelyn Crawford.
Safety and Skills
There are inherent risks associated with all climbing and bouldering. Take a class and make sure you feel comfortable with what skills you need before climbing outdoors. Below are some of the skills you should be familiar with prior to your trip.
Climbing Pad Placement
Both the climber and spotter should take care to prepare a safe landing zone by removing any obstacles and placing crash pads below the boulder problem. The pads should cover any rocks, tree roots, or other protruding natural features underneath the route, and should be pushed together so gaps are minimized.
Spotting
This involves another person protecting your fall from a boulder. The spotter should maintain a stable stance with arms raised in case of a fall and may need to move to stay in position and spot the climber. If the climber does fall, the spotter should place their hands on the climber's hips to help slow the fall and direct the climber to the protected landing zone.
Communication is key! Let your spotter know if you know you’re working on a tough section where falls are likely, or if you want them in a specific spot. The spotter should also communicate with the climber that they are protected and the spotter is ready to catch them.
Smearing and Slopes
These sandstone boulders erode in various patterns, but soft edges and rounded holds are common here. Because the rock is made up of such coarse grains, it is also very grippy. This combination results in a climbing style not often found in gyms or on other rock types.
The footwork on these boulders often utilizes small protrusions or bulges, and lots of smearing.
Friction is your best friend on sloping (and seemingly blank) top outs. Take your time to adjust to the type of routes and holds here, since they are fairly unique.
Once you’re comfortable, you’ll find that you can trust the smallest of footholds, and your hands will stick to most of the slopey handholds!
Some climbs have repaired sections, like this hold on the Hueco Wall. The best practice is to avoid damaging the rock so no further alterations are required to preserve climbs.
Climbing Etiquette
In addition to following Leave No Trace Ethics, there are some additional guidelines to follow when climbing at Castle Rock.
Protect the rock!
Sandstone is surprisingly fragile, and if we want the same routes to exist for future climbers, we have to do our part to preserve them. Never climb on wet rock, since moisture makes sandstone weaker. Use care when cleaning boulders, and avoid using brushes with wire bristles.
Be conscientious of other parkgoers
Climbers are not the only visitors to Castle Rock. The mossy trees, beautifully bizarre rock formations, numerous trails, and breathtaking vistas draw many looking for a change from urban surroundings.
Keep pads and belongings off the main trails, be aware of music volume, and don’t be surprised if other park-goers are curious about your equipment or what you’re up to.
Keep your distance
Climbers are friendly! It can be fun to combine groups and work on problems together but remember to be respectful of social distancing and mask regulations.
There are well established trails throughout the park that can be used to reach most bouldering areas (Indian Rock Side).
Getting There
San Francisco is probably the best-known nearby city, as well as the nearest major international airport. Fly into San Francisco International Airport (SFO) or San Jose Mineta International Airport (SJC).
To get to the park, you’ll have to have access to a car as there is not a convenient bus or shuttle system that goes there. Rent a car at SFO or SJC. Between the two, San Jose is a smaller airport, but still has a full suite of options in terms of car rental companies.
Driving to the park does require a vehicle, but no off-roading or 4WD is necessary.
The main parking lot and Kirkwood entrance is at 15451 Skyline Boulevard (Highway 35).
A variety of route types can be found at Castle Rock, like this crack at the Indian Cracks boulder. Photo by Jocelyn Crawford.
Maps and Guidebooks
Mountain Project is a popular, free, crowd-sourced climbing guide app that covers popular climbing areas including Castle Rock. The app has detailed routes including maps, photos, and comments from fellow climbers. Cell service is pretty spotty at Castle Rock so it’s a good idea to download area details before heading out. If it is your first time looking for certain boulders or routes, the photos are very helpful, and the comments can help guide you to less obvious locations.
Printed guidebooks have the same features as the Mountain Project app, but in more detail and compiled by an expert on the area, usually a local climber. These guides can get expensive, but don’t require any cell service and can have more routes and details than a crowdsourced app.
Bruce Morris’s Rock Climbing Guide to the Castle Rock Area is a popular one that includes 500 boulder problems a rope climbs.
There’s a section on the area in Bay Area Rock by Jim Thornburg, as well. (This is a great guide for the Bay Area as a whole if you’re hesitant to get a book just for Castle Rock).
Post Trip Favorite Food
For coffee, bread, and all your pastry needs, check out Manresa Bread in Los Gatos. They are technically open from 8 am - 3 pm daily, but they close as soon as their baked goodies run out. If you’re looking for a bigger meal in Los Gatos, burritos from Andalé hit the spot later in the day.
Gear List
Crash pads are essential. Indian Cracks boulder.
Crash Pads
One of the great things about bouldering is that the required gear is pretty minimal! The most important piece of equipment is a crash pad, or as many crash pads as you can bring, to protect you in landing areas. REI rents crash pads by the night to both members and non-members.
Climbing Shoes
Whatever climbing shoe you prefer to climb in will work here, so don’t feel like you need to purchase a specific type of shoe just for the sandstone on a Castle Rock trip.
But, if you have a few different styles of climbing shoes, this might be the time for a softer, less aggressive sole.
Since the climbing requires delicate footwork and smearing, the softer and more sensitive the shoe, the better. See our Best Climbing Shoes guide for our recommendations.
Chalk
Shoes with soft soles and chalk bags are Castle Rock bouldering essentials. Photo courtesy Jocelyn Crawford.
Chalk is commonplace in climbing areas since it helps keep your hands dry and grippy. If you visit this area in the warmer months, chalk will help combat slippery humidity! Just make sure to clean up chalk spills to the best of your ability, and consider using it sparingly to stick to Leave No Trace principles.
Brushes without metal brushes are useful for cleaning friction dependent holds without damaging the rock. Photo courtesy Jocelyn Crawford.
Brush
By no means essential, a brush can be useful if you’re working on popular boulder problems that see a lot of traffic. Some say it’s just mental, but sometimes brushing chalk from a hold can make it feel a bit more grippy which is very helpful on slopey sandstone holds! Just stay away from wire brushes as these can damage the delicate rock.
Tape
Tape is another item that isn’t essential for a climbing trip, but can be very useful. Gritty rock textures can rip the skin on your hands, and tape can help protect extra sensitive fingertips or torn calluses. Especially if your skin is still adjusting to outdoor rock climbing, tape can help you get a few more climbs in the day.
Water and Snacks
Don’t let dehydration or hunger cut your trip short! Bringing water and snacks is recommended since there is no access to either while in the park. As always, make sure to dispose of all your trash properly and pack out everything you bring into the park.
Related: Best Protein Powder
Read More: Best Electrolytes
HEADLAMP AND FIRST AID KIT
Even though you should plan to be back to your car by dark because park hours are until sunset, it’s worth throwing a headlamp or flashlight in your bag just in case. Choose a headlamp that is bright, lightweight, and has long battery life. We recommend some of our favorites in our Best Headlamps story. My favorite headlamp is the Petzl Actik Core with a rechargeable battery. I write about it in my Eco-Friendly Gear Swaps to Reduce Your Environmental Impact.
What to Wear
Climbing-friendly clothes that can take the rough sandstone is important for bouldering in Castle Rock. Photo courtesy Jocelyn Crawford.
Wear whatever you feel comfortable climbing in! Clothing that lets you move freely, like your preferred athletic wear, is a good choice. In the fall and spring, temperatures are usually between 45-60°F, but can also vary a lot throughout the day, and even between areas, due to sun and wind exposure. When dressing for a full day outside layers are your friend.
If you’re looking for a specific layer or kind of gear, here are our favorite outdoor clothing items on our Outdoor Apparel page.
Warm layers
I generally like to have a jacket or sweatshirt for when I’m resting between climbs and lighter clothing underneath for sweating on hard projects.
Of course, the weather also changes depending on the season, so checking the forecast prior to going can help you choose between pants and shorts, or long and short sleeves. Since the approach here is short, I don’t worry much about pack weight, so tossing in extra warm socks, a beanie, or even an extra layer helps keep me warm no matter the temperature fluctuations.
See our Best Hiking Socks guide for recommendations on keeping your feet warm. See our Best Down Jackets or Synthetic Jackets, or Fleece Jackets guides for our favorite layers.
Climbing-Friendly Pants
Since there is a lot of smearing and wiggling up top-outs on slopey holds at Castle Rock, I generally prefer tougher fabrics or items I am not worried about roughing up a bit.
My current favorite climbing pants are the Outdoor Voices RecTrek Pants since they are flexible and fairly durable.
While not all models are ideal for climbing, you can see more options in our Best Men’s Hiking Pants and Best Women’s Hiking Pants guides or our Best Hiking Leggings guide.
Climbing-Friendly Baselayer
Since I run cold, I usually opt for a warm baselayer (like this one from Patagonia, or this Smartwool option on colder days) under an old t-shirt. See our Best Baselayers guide for more base layer suggestions.
Footwear
The same principles apply to approach footwear: whatever you feel comfortable doing the approach walk-in will work. I’ve seen climbers make the trek in anything from flip-flops to hiking boots, as everyone has different preferences. The main trails can be used to get to most of the boulders, although some areas may require you to hike short distances on a less maintained access trail.
For dedicated approach shoes for getting to climbing areas, see my guide to Best Approach Shoes.
See our Best Lightweight Hiking Boots guide or Best Hiking Boots Guide for suggestions.
I usually opt for Chaco sandals with a pair of wool socks for support and a bit of warmth, with the ability to change in and out of climbing shoes easily. Chacos are winners in our Best Hiking Sandals guide and Best Camp Shoes guide for that reason.
If you plan on spending a lot of time in one spot, another option is to make the approach in your preferred walking/hiking shoes then put on sandals or slip-ons while walking around your selected bouldering area for the day.
Everyone has different crag preferences, however, it is not recommended to make the approach in your actual climbing shoes. Other than just being uncomfortable, since climbing shoes are meant to fit very snugly and offer little support, they also wear out extremely quickly when exposed to more dirt, moisture, and rougher terrain than necessary.
Have fun and stay safe!
WHY YOU SHOULD TRUST US
Jocelyn Crawford is a climbing devotee originally from Seattle and currently based in San Francisco. She holds a B.A. from Claremont McKenna College in Biochemistry and enjoys combining her background in research and college athletics to evaluate gear, climbing destinations, and training methods.
